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Make Up
Now that your hair is perfected, let's finish it off with a few
pointers on make-up.
EYES
Barely a season goes by without eyeliner emerging as on of the
predominant make-up trends. Whether it's deep, dark-kohl rimmed
eyes, soft brown smudgings or glamour puss lids winged with a
sweeping of black, there's always a way to draw attention to
your eyes.
This season's interpretation o smoky eyes sees metallic effects
introduced to add
a modern three-dimensional shine. Eyes are ringed with
smouldering shades, from
deep pewter to sparkling copper and shimmering plum. Plenty of
black liner adds
rock star definition and colors are then smudged over lids and
up to the browbones.
Good blending is essential; take the color right into the inner
corners of the eyes
and along the lower lash line using a fine-tipped brush or
cotton ball. Groom brows
with a brush or clear lash gel and define lashes with plenty of
black mascara.
A strongly colored kohl pencil is the basis of many of these
looks, so invest in
a good one with a slightly powdery, non-greasy texture for
longer-lasting results.
Look for shadows flecked with shimmer or try loose powder
formulations instead.
Liquid liner is indispensable in creating the classic looks that
are so dominant
on the red carpet and runways now. It sets a smooth, neat finish
that's more sophisticated than kohl and longer-wearing than
shadow. Yes, it can be tricky to apply, requiring a steady hand
and a degree of skill, but the extra effort is worth the
glamorous results.
Don't close your eye when applying liquid liner as this can
create an uneven finish.
Instead, get as close to the mirror as you can and draw the line
in two or three
separate movements, then go back over the area to join. Any
mistakes can be cleaned up with the tip of a Q-Tip.
If you want a more dramatic effect, go back over the base line
and build up the
thickness from the middle to the outer corner, extending the
line slightly beyond
the eye. Liquid liner only really works on the upper lash line;
if you want to
define the lower lashes, choose a pencil version.
Pencil is a much easier option and many people find its finish
less "done"
than a liquid. Choose one that is sot and blendable; try on the
back of your hand
first and discard any that drag the skin or eel scratchy. Apply
as close to the
lash line as possible and smudge with a sponge-tipped applicator
or Q-Tip for a
modern, smokey effect. Greys, browns and navy shades suit most
eye colors, and although black can be a little hard; it's
perfect for rock-chick and high-impact looks.
Here a few secrets from the pros on creating illusions with eye
make-up:
To make eyes look closer together: Stroke a light or medium
neutral shade of eyeshadow on the inner corner of your eye or
draw eyeliner a bit thicker on the inner corner of the eye.
To make eyes look farther apart: Take a matte shadow in a darker
shade and stroke it outward and slightly upward on the outer
corners of the top and bottom
lids. You can also use eyeliner by making it thicker on the
outer edge of your eyelid and extend it slightly upward.
To make eyes look bigger: Stroke a neutral shadow in a light
shade all over the lid especially up to the brow line. Follow
with a darker color in the crease. Use eyeliner to outline both
the top and bottom lash line.
To make eyes look rounder: Apply eyeshadow around the edges of
the upper and lower lids. Use eyeliner to outline the eye both
top and bottom, but wing the eyeliner out at the edge of the top
outer edge.
To make eyes look more oval: Use eyeliner to draw a fine line at
the base of the lashes. Thicken it slightly in the middle.
EYEBROWS
Well-groomed eyebrows are a beauty must. You should embrace your
natural eyebrow shape, because no matter how much you tweeze you
cannot turn them into something they are not. Here is a simple
way to find the best shape or your eyebrows.
How do you determine where to start? Here's how to make the
perfect eyebrow shape. Locate the three pivotal points along
your brow line by following this quick exercise:
Point 1: Hold a pencil vertically against the side
of your nose, noting where it
meets the brow. That is where your brow should begin.
Point 2: Hold the pencil against your nostril and
move it diagonally across the
outer half of the iris of your eye. Note where the pencil meets
the brow. This
is the best place or the peak of your brow. If you tweeze rom
Point 1 to Point
2, tapering the line slightly thinner toward the peak, you will
create the ideal
shape for your brow.
Point 3: Place the pencil against your nostril and
extend it diagonally to the outer corner o your eye. Where it
meets the eyebrow is the best place for your eyebrow to end. If
you tweeze from Point 2 to Point 3, tapering the line even
thinner, you will create the ideal eyebrow shape for your face.
EYELASHES
Eyelashes are defined by mascara. There are two basic types of
mascara - waterproof and regular. Unless you cry a lot or are a
swimmer, stick to regular because waterproof is hard to remove.
Most women prefer black mascara because it is basic yet
sophisticated and works well on almost anyone. However, if you
are blonde or simply want to look more natural, try brown. If
both of those seem too dark for your eyelashes, try clear.
Mascara contains a lot of wax, and the wax can develop crystal
formations that prevent it from going on smoothly. Using a
thinner brush can help, because it is more precise and makes it
easier to get into the corner lashes while avoiding the clumps.
A short wand is better than a long one because it gives you more
control.
A few helpful pointers:
1. To avoid clumping and smudging, always wipe the mascara wand
lightly with a
tissue before you apply it.
2. On the upper lashes, apply upward in parallel strokes,
starting in the middle
and moving out to the edges.
3. Give a few coats to the edges, which is where you want to
concentrate your efforts,
by blinking onto the brush. Use very little on the bottom lashes
to avoid smearing.
4. If your mascara clumps, use a clean old toothbrush to "comb"
through your lashes. Sometimes mascara smudges beneath the eyes
because it is attracted to oily concealer or eye creams. If your
mascara always smudges, try patting a bit of powder under your
eye before you apply mascara.
LIPSTICK
Of all the types of make-up you apply, lipstick can be the
biggest influencer of them all. Your lips can look well defined
or subtle, bubble-gum pink or neutral nude. Lipstick can be the
difference between a natural look and a finished, polished
statement. The shade and way you apply your lipstick can make a
big difference in enhancing your look.
To keep lips healthy on a regular basis, drink 8 glasses of
water a day. This will keep the skin on your lips moist and
healthy. If you need additional moisture, applying lip balm will
help add extra softness to keep lips smooth. In extreme
instances, applying heavy petroleum jelly before going to bed
will allow your lips to heal overnight. Before applying lipstick
you should make sure your lips are smooth and crack free to
avoid clumps and bumps once your lipstick is on. Examine your
lips in the mirror. If they seem anything other than smooth,
pull out a clean, old toothbrush and gently rub it over your
lips to exfoliate any unwanted dead skin cells still lingering.
Doing these things on a regular basis will keep your lips in tip
top shape allowing them to act as a clean smooth canvas for
color.
Next you must decide on some basics. Do you want to use lip
liner? What color do you use? How about using gloss? These
decisions are purely personal, and primarily depend on the look
you are going for. One thing to consider is what are you trying
to accent. Is it your make-up, a certain feature, or your
outfit? If you have found a must-have shade of eyeshadow or
lipstick, accentuating your make-up is the way to go, but keep
these things in mind. As a rule, if you are creating a dramatic
look for your eyes, your lips should be neutral so as not to
overpower the look. However the same rule applies to the eyes as
previously defined for the lips. If your lips are the feature
making the statement, keep your eyeshadow to a minimum.
Sometimes matching your lipstick to your outfit can be fabulous,
but only if you want a very powerful, noticeable effect. If you
are going for something subtle and professional, a neutral look
for your lips will do just fine. Now that you have decided the
type of effect you want to create, deciding the hue comes next.
If you want a sleek sophisticated look, deep reds, pinks and
berries matched with a lip liner of the same color add a
finished polish that screams sophistication. Using a high gloss
lipstick will add that shine quality to your pout. This look is
primarily good for evening make-up, but can be toned down for
day wear by using a more matte finish product with hints of
brown. To keep lips light and out of the limelight, neutral
shades bordering on beige and tan, even subtle pinks can be
used. Lip liners used with these shades should be nude in color
and only used to give definition to the lips rather than to be
part of the look. Finally, gloss can be used to either tweak the
shade of lipstick you are using, or to add high sheen for
noticeable lips.
Begin the lipstick application process by covering your lips
with foundation to add staying power to the lip products you
plan to use. When applying your lipstick, go for the liner
first, if you choose to use one. Don't use a liner darker than
your lipstick, because as your lipstick fades, your liner won't,
and this will leave a dark ring around your lips. Start at the
center of your lip and draw a line to the outer corner,
following the edge of your natural lip line. Once your lips are
lined color in your lips with the liner. This is an additional
way to keep your lipstick on longer. Finally, apply your
lipstick going from the center of your lips to the outside
corners. Blot your lips on a tissue and reapply lightly. Finish
with a gloss if so desired. (QUICK HINT: If you apply gloss to
the center of your bottom lip only, it will enhance that lips
giving you a poutier look.)

CHEEKS
There are so many different blush formulations now that knowing
which to choose and how to apply it can be a little daunting. It
can be simply a matter of personal
preference; if you like the dewy, country-walk glow then a
liquid or gel formula
is probably best. I you prefer a more matte, contoured finish
then a powder will
produce the right results. As a rule, color should be applied to
the fullest part
of the face (the fleshy part when you smile) and blended up and
out towards the hairline. Apply just a whisper for a hint of a
glow or build up the shade for a more obvious rosy look.

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